How To Make CSS Buttons Css3Menu.com

 

Maverick and Comet Repair

Emission Controls

THERMACTOR AIR PUMP DRIVE BELT REPLACEMENT AND/OR ADJUSTMENT

  1. Loosen the air pump adjusting bolt. Loosen the air pump-to-mounting bracket bolt and push the air pump toward the cylinder block. Remove the belt.
  2. Install a new drive belt. With a suitable bar, pry against the rear cover of the air pump to obtain the specified belt tension.
  3. Retighten the pump mounting bolts.

NOTE: It is highly advisable to use a belt tension gauge (T63L-8620-A) to check belt tension. When using this tool, follow the manufacturer's instructions and specifications. Any belt which has been operated for 10 minutes or more is considered to be a "used" belt, and should be adjusted accordingly.

In the event that a belt tension gauge is not available, the thumb deflection method of belt tension adjustment must be employed.

Component Testing
POSITIVE CRANKCASE VENTILATION SYSTEM
PCV Valve Test

  1. See if any deposits are present in the carburetor passages, the oil filler cap, or the hoses. Clean these as required.
  2. Connect a tachometer, as instructed by its manufacturer, to the engine.
  3. With the engine idling, do one of the following:
    a.) Remove the PCV valve hose from the crankcase or the oil filter connection.
    b. On cars with the PCV valve located in a grommet on the valve cover, remove both the valve and the grommet.
    NOTE: If the valve and the hoses are not clogged-up, a hissing sound should be present.
  4. Check the tachometer reading. Place a finger over the valve or hose opening (a suction should be felt)
  5. Check the tachometer again. The engine speed should have dropped at least 50 rpm. It should return to normal when the finger is removed from the opening.
  6. If the engine does not change speed or if the change is less than 50 rpm, the hose is clogged or the valve is defective. Check the hose first. If the hose is not clogged, replace, do not attempt to repair, the PCV valve.
  7. Test the new valve in the above manner, to make sure that it is operating properly.

HEATED AIR INTAKE SYSTEM
Thermostat Operated Type—1970-72 Test
To check the operation of the duct and valve assembly, start with a cold engine and an air cleaner temperature of less than 100°F. Check the valve plate. It should be up in the "heat on" position. If it is not, check for proper installation of the spring and free operation of the plate in the duct. If interference is present, correct by realigning plate.

To check the operation of the thermostat, remove the duct and valve from the air cleaner. Move the valve plate by hand to make sure it does not bind in the duct. Then, immerse it in a pan of water, making sure that the thermostat capsule is covered. Raise the water temperature to 100°F, and allow a few minutes to stabilize the temperature. The valve plate should be in the "heat on" position.

Raise the water temperature to 135°F, and again allow a few minutes to stabilize the temperature. The valve plate should move to the "heat off" position, if the valve plate does not operate properly under these conditions, the duct and valve assembly must be replaced.

Now start the engine. At engine idle, the plate should move to the closed or "heat on" position. Remember, the engine and the air cleaner must be about room temperature or below so the temperature sensing switch will not begin to control the valve plate.

Vacuum Operated Type—1973-77
DUCT AND VALVE ASSEMBLY TEST

  1. Either start with a cold engine or remove the air cleaner from the engine for at least half an hour. While cooling the air cleaner, leave the engine compartment hood open.
  2. Tape a thermometer, of known accuracy, to the inside of the air cleaner so that it is near the temperature sensor unit. Install the air cleaner on the engine but do not fasten its securing nut.
  3. Start the engine. With the engine cold and the outside temperature less than 90°F, the door should be in the "heat on" position
    (closed to outside air).
    NOTE: Due to the position of the air cleaner on some cars, a mirror may be necessary when observing the position of the air door.
  4. Operate the throttle lever rapidly to 1/2-3/4 of its opening and release it. The air door should open to allow outside air to enter and then close again.
  5. Allow the engine to warm up to normal temperature. Watch the door. When it opens to the outside air, remove the cover from the air cleaner. The temperature should be over 90°F and no more than 130°F; 105°F is about normal. If the door does not work within these temperature ranges, or fails to work at all, check for linkage or door binding.

If binding is not present and the air door is not working, proceed with the vacuum tests, given below. If these indicate no faults in the vacuum motor and the door is not working, the temperature sensor is defective and must be replaced.

Vacuum Motor Test
NOTE: Be sure that the vacuum hose that runs between the temperature switch and the vacuum motor is not pinched by the retaining clip under the air cleaner. This could prevent the air door from closing.

  1. Check all of the vacuum lines and fittings for leaks. Correct any leaks. If none are found, proceed with the test.
  2. Remove the hose which runs from the sensor to the vacuum motor. Run a hose directly from the manifold vacuum source to the vacuum motor.
  3. If the motor closes the air door, it is functioning properly and the temperature sensor is defective.
  4. If the motor does not close the door and no binding is present in its operation, the vacuum motor is defective and must be replaced.
    NOTE: If an alternate vacuum source is applied to the motor, insert a vacuum gauge in the line by using a T-fitting. Apply at least 9 in. Hg of vacuum in order to operate the motor.